When shopping for pearls, you’ll often hear terms like “AAA quality” or “gem grade,” but what do those really mean? To keep things simple, jewelers often refer to the Five S’s of Pearl Quality: the key characteristics that define a pearl’s beauty and value. Understanding these will help you choose pearls that fit your style, budget, and lifestyle.
1. Size
Pearls range from delicate 2mm seed pearls to bold 16mm+ statement pearls.
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Smaller pearls (2–6mm): dainty, feminine, and perfect for everyday wear.
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Medium pearls (7–9mm): classic and versatile, the sweet spot for timeless necklaces and earrings.
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Large pearls (10mm+): rare, dramatic, and often investment-worthy.
In general, the larger the pearl, the more valuable it is (assuming all other quality factors are equal).
2. Shape
Perfectly round pearls are the rarest (and most prized), but other shapes have their own unique charm:
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Round: the gold standard of elegance.
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Near-round: slightly off, but still smooth and chic.
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Baroque: organic, one-of-a-kind shapes that feel modern and artistic.
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Drop or oval: elongated and perfect for pendants or earrings.
Shape comes down to personal style. Do you prefer flawless symmetry or nature’s artistic touch?
Shop the Horseshoe Baroque Pearl Drop Earrings
3. Surface
A pearl’s skin tells its story. Blemishes, tiny pits, or ridges are natural, but fewer imperfections = higher value.
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Clean surface: reflects light beautifully, perfect for fine jewelry.
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Slight blemishes: add character and often make pearls more affordable.
Remember, even the highest-quality pearls usually have some surface marks; it’s part of their natural beauty.
4. Shine (Luster)
Luster is the magic glow that sets pearls apart. It’s how light reflects off and through the pearl’s surface layers.
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High luster: sharp, mirror-like reflections and a deep glow.
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Soft luster: more muted and subtle, with gentle light play.
Luster is often the single most important factor in how stunning pearls look in person.
5. Shade (Color)
Pearls come in a surprising variety of shades beyond the classic white:
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White & cream: timeless and versatile.
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Pink & lavender: feminine and romantic.
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Golden South Sea: luxurious and radiant.
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Black Tahitian: bold, modern, and exotic.
There’s no “best” shade. It's all about what resonates with your personal style and skin tone.
The Takeaway
When choosing pearls, remember the Five S’s: Size, Shape, Surface, Shine, and Shade. Together, they determine a pearl’s beauty, value, and personality. Whether you love the perfectly polished elegance of round Akoya pearls or the natural artistry of baroque shapes, there’s a pearl for every mood, outfit, and moment.
Because at the end of the day, the best pearls aren’t always the rarest or most expensive, they’re the ones you’ll love wearing, every single day.
